insaquí's history stretches back over three centuries. The colonial hacienda was constructed as far back as 1790, and following a disastrous earthquake that shook the region in 1867, faithfully and caringly restored. The building originally housed a textile workshop, employing nearly one thousand local weavers and spinners. In the late 1800s, the unique creations of these workers became internationally renowned, when the "bayetas", a special fabric typical of Pinsaquí, arrived at the World's Fair in Chicago.
During the 1800s, the hacienda hosted many important guests. Among these was Simón Bolívar, the brilliant Venezuelan general who became known simply as 'El Libertador' following his successful struggle to liberate Venezuela, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador and Peru from the Spanish yoke. General Bolívar used to stay in the hacienda when campaigning, both militarily and politically, back and forth between Ecuador and Colombia. At the hacienda he found a special peace and tranquillity, and, although not proven, he may also have met his beautiful quiteña lover Manuela Sáenz here for furtive fumblings.
Under fifty years later, Bolívar's dream of a united 'Gran Colombia' having crumbled, Ecuador was engaged in constant wrangling with its northern neighbour Colombia. During the period Gabriel García Moreno presidency, these conflicts became acute. Unfortunately, the Ecuadorians backed the wrong horse in an internal power struggle between Colombian liberals and conservatives. The vanquishing conservatives then decided to extract revenge from their neighbours. The result was the rather humiliating Treaty of Pinsaquí, signed in the hacienda on December 30th 1863, a chapter best forgotten in Ecuadorian history.
Since then, the last five generations of the Freile-Larrea family have maintained ownership and care of this historic hacienda. One approaches the main house through imposing white stone gates, the front garden rolling gracefully down to a fountain at the hacienda's main entrance, which then divides into two wings. The hacienda was undeniably built to impress.
The furniture, including an exquisite chandelier and a behemoth writing desk, comes mainly from France and Spain. It was brought back by the free-wheeling and free-spending Freile of the early 20th century, who was rumoured to have been a lover of Frida Kahlo while ambassador to Mexico. His experiences abroad influenced the decoration of the house. Throughout the hacienda, you'll find yet more impressive chandeliers, acres of marble floors, framed newspaper clippings from the early 1800s and the wonderful aromas of fresh flowers and plants.
Adjoining the main house, passing by the family chapel, are what were once the store rooms where the produce of the hacienda's vast lands were brought. They've now been converted into huge dining and living rooms with huge hearths and echoing ceilings.
Tradition in the hacienda remains strong. Every lunch, local Indian musicians from Otavalo arrive to entertain listeners with their traditional music and warm characters, intimately sharing their culture, through verse and instruments, with the guests.
Another tradition, more recent admittedly, is unveiled when groups of guests stay at the hacienda. The owners then provide a special treat. In the early evening, all the guests are invited to the bar area for a welcome drink. Once everyone has gathered round, the owner enters the bar - atop his favourite stallion. He then proceeds to recount the personal history of the hacienda. There is also a unique opportunity to sit upon the horse for a picture.
Despite its imposing size and historical associations, Pinsaquí will fill you with warmth and wonder, charm and character, and irreplaceable memories.